The Amalfi Coast has a special place in my heart and is a great source of inspiration for many of the patterns and designs that I create. From its jewelled seas, ancient pathways and magnificent views, to its history, traditions, flavours and aromas that awaken the senses, the Amalfi Coast is a magical symphony of colour and life.
This post is a repost of an article I wrote some time ago about the iconic symbol of the region – the Amalfi Coast lemon (sfusato amalfitano).
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It’s a beautiful winter’s day. The sun is shining and it is warm – a perfect day to take a leisurely walk along ‘Il Sentiero dei Limoni’ (the Path of Lemons).
Il Sentiero dei Limoni is an historic mountain path connecting the villages of Maiori and Minori, on the Amalfi Coast. Clinging to the ridges, it winds its way through lush, terraced lemon gardens, that overlook the sea. It is here you are able to truly experience the tradition, the history and the genuine spirit or essence of what is both the heart and symbol of the Amalfi Coast: the ‘sfusato amalfitano’ – the Amalfi Coast lemon.
Amalfi Coast Lemons... a little history
The sfusato amalfitano lemon is not native to the Amalfi Coast. We know from frescoes and mosaics uncovered in Ercolano and Pompeii, that lemons themselves were cultivated by the Romans in the first century. However, they were probably ornamental and only used for decorative purposes: possibly a status symbol for the Roman elite.
The origins of the sfusato amalfitano lemon actually began in the Middle East. The fruit called ‘limon amalphitanus’ at that stage, was introduced by Arab traders, first into Spain and then into Sicily. Trade between the Republic of Amalfi and the Middle East, finally saw it introduced into the Campania region. Intense cultivation of the lemon began in the 11th century. Its medicinal properties: an effective aid in the prevention and cure of scurvy, resulted in the Republic of Amalfi, decreeing that all ships were to carry supplies of the lemon abroad. As a result, demand for the lemons increased significantly.
The rural landscape of the Amalfi Coast provided enormous challenges in terms of its cultivation. Overcoming these challenges transformed the entire Coast, from Positano to Vietri sul Mare remarkably – culturally, economically and physically. Inaccessible, steep terrain was reclaimed. The now famous dry stone walled terraces or ‘lemon gardens’ you see hugging the mountainsides, all along the coast, are the amazing result. The lemons thrived in the porous and fertile soil of the Coast – protected from the cold northerly wind by the mountains but exposed to the salt laden sea breezes and hours of strong sunlight.
Production Areas
From the 1400s, a flourishing trade to other parts of Italy and Europe began out of the port at Minori and so production was again increased. The whole of each town was involved in the production: the men with the cultivation, the women with the transportation – back breaking work along Il Sentiero dei Limoni. The lemons carried by the women to the beach, where the fruit was loaded onto ships.
Whilst transport methods may have changed, the lemons are still harvested this way today – on the shoulders of manual workers. By the 19th century, trade in the lemons across the world had brought both economic and social importance to the region.
Today the cultivation of the lemon remains an important part of the local economy, although perhaps it is a little more entwined with tourism than it once was. 100,000 tons of lemons are harvested annually, from approximately 400 hectares.
Production, however, is now regulated. In October 2003, a body called the Consorzio di Tutela Limone Costa d’Amalfi I.G.P. (Protected Geographical Indication) was founded in order to ensure the origin and quality of the ‘sfusato amalfitano’ lemon. All lemons, liqueurs and lemon by-products bearing the I.G.P. logo conform to the regulations.
Il Sentiero dei Limon... the path of lemons
Il Sentiero dei Limoni is a beautiful, leisurely walk. Whilst there are a few stairs to climb, they are not arduous by any means. It is suitable for anyone, including children, with a basic level of fitness: If you need to take a breather, there are plenty of beautiful spots along the path to do so. It will take you about an hour to complete the walk – depending on how many times you stop to take photos, admire the views or to just immerse yourself in the experience.
The lemon path can be walked from both directions. I chose to start my walk in Maiori.
Here the walk begins in Piazzale Campo, just to the side of Chiesa Collegiata di Santa Maria a Mare, with its beautiful green and yellow majolica tiled domes. Named after a statue found on the beach in Maiori in 1200, the views from the church of the coast, the village, and the terraced mountains are beautiful. An olive tree and a sign beside the stairs of Via Vena mark the start of an easy climb. As you climb the stairs, you pass a small group of sundrenched, white houses. These are some of the oldest houses in Maiori. A small aedicula reminds you of the importance of religion to the Coast.
As you continue walking along Il Sentiero dei Limoni, the typical Mediterranean scrub or macchia becomes apparent, growing up the rocky cliff faces. Olive trees, pines, gorse, rosemary, vines – you notice the stillness, the crispness in the air. You are taken back to another era. The stillness is broken as you hear hooves on the stones. A muleteer and his mules pass you by as if to reinforce the moment.
Terraced lemon gardens... a sensory experience
You soon come to the first lemon gardens. The terraces are walled: high, old dry stone walls, carefully constructed and maintained to ensure correct drainage. Some are filled with opportunistic plants. Run your fingers over them – feel the history and tradition beneath your fingertips. Reflect for a moment on the work, the perseverance that it must have taken to carve these garden out of the mountainside.
Look up: the trees are grown on typical chestnut wood frames about 1.8m high. A lush, green canopy is created above, which maximises exposure to the sun and sea air. The ripening golden fruit is allowed to hang freely. I would love to be here when the trees are in bloom. The scent must be intoxicating! The trees at this time of the year however, are covered to protect the precious fruit from the elements and to delay ripening. Make sure you take a peek behind some of the gates as you pass by them. You will get a better perspective of the gardens and how they are structured.
A fork in the road
The walk from here is pretty much downhill. Passing through narrow streets, with long flights of stairs, you begin to get glimpses of Minori. Finally, you reach lookout #8 ‘Belvedere la Mortella’ (a dialect word referring to the myrtle plant). From here the view opens up. Minori: the town itself, its beautiful cruciform Basilica with its terracotta tiled roof and the beach. In the distance: the mountains of Scala and Agerola, glimpses of Amalfi, Atrani, and Ravello.
You will soon come to a fork in the path. The path to the left will take you down a flight of stairs into the centre of Minori. The path to the right continues to climb and ends at the Annunziata Bell Tower, all that remains of the Annunziata village.
The culinary landscape: antipasto to liqueur
These qualities combined with its amazing flavour have changed not only the physical landscape of the Amalfi Coast but the culinary landscape too: the juice, the flesh, the peel, and even the leaves are all used in the local cuisine.
Inspired by Amalfi lemons
